Van Cleef & Arpels at TEFAF Maastricht 2024
For the past 11 years, Van Cleef & Arpels has been a part of the Fine Art and Antique Fair, TEFAF, held in Maastricht. This prestigious event showcases masterpieces from various disciplines, including antique artwork, grand master paintings, and High Jewelry pieces.
Drawing of a Minaudière, circa 1960
Van Cleef & Arpels Archives
Minaudière, 1961
Platinum, yellow gold, diamonds
Heritage collection
Drawing of a bracelet, circa 1950
Van Cleef & Arpels Archives
Bracelet, 968
Yellow gold, turquoise, amethysts, diamonds
Heritage collection
Drawing of a Leaf clip, circa 1940
Van Cleef & Arpels Archives
Leaf clip, 1943
Yellow gold, rubies, diamonds
Heritage collectionHeritage and Contemporary Creations on Display
This year, the event is scheduled from March 9th to 14th, and Van Cleef & Arpels is presenting seven pieces: five from its Heritage collection and two contemporary creations. These pieces highlight the Maison’s history, inventive spirit, and cherished sources of inspiration.
Heritage Collection Pieces
The Heritage collection includes nearly 120 antique Jewelry and High Jewelry pieces for sale, crafted by Van Cleef & Arpels between the 1920s and the 1990s. For TEFAF Maastricht 2024, the Maison has chosen two Leaf clips from the 1940s and three creations from the 1960s.
Leaf Clips from the 1940s
Van Cleef & Arpels draws endless inspiration from the world of flora, evident in these two leaf-shaped clips. Their subtly asymmetrical outlines, crafted with great restraint, honor the vitality and expressive spontaneity of nature. The first clip, created in 1943, features polished gold surfaces adorned with star-set diamonds, reminiscent of Van Cleef & Arpels’ iconic Ludo bracelets from the 1930s.
The 1947 Leaf clip has a central vein with a slender curve studded with square rubies, their intense purple hue accentuated by a yellow gold border. This piece, adorned with diamonds of various sizes, represents the Maison’s post-war return to the detailed naturalistic aesthetic of the late-19th century.
Minaudière and Its Significance
The Minaudière, along with iconic pieces like the Zip necklace and Cadenas watch, is a signature creation of the Maison. In 1933, Charles Arpels was inspired by an American client’s metal box to create this sophisticated jewelry case, contributing to Van Cleef & Arpels’ global reputation.
This 1961 Minaudière, equipped with a mirror and ingenious compartments, allowed women to carry essentials like lipstick, calling cards, and a cigarette case during evenings. The delicately woven gold texture and diamond-set clasp reflect the Maison’s connection to couture, adding a final touch of sophistication.
1960s Jewelry Creations
A pair of earrings from the 1960s features deep-blue sapphires enhanced by the rose cut, the oldest faceting technique from the 16th century, offering subtle brilliance. These earrings, adorned with rubies, pear-shaped emeralds, and diamonds set in yellow gold, can be transformed to suit different occasions, in line with the Maison’s tradition of transformable jewelry. These shimmering gem cascades, combined with yellow gold, would have been perfectly accentuated by the popular short ‘pixie’ hairstyles of the 1960s, swaying to the wearer’s movements. In line with the Maison’s tradition of transformable jewelry, these elements can be detached to suit the occasion or the owner’s desires, leaving only the main floral motifs.
A 1968 bracelet showcases turquoise cabochons paired with amethysts and diamonds, creating a vibrant color palette. The bracelet’s delicate openwork and articulated structure in twisted yellow gold reflect the aesthetic of 1970s jewelry, suitable for adaptable wear from day to night.
Contemporary High Jewelry Pieces
Van Cleef & Arpels unveils two unique High Jewelry pieces that highlight its repertoire: a Between the Finger ring with a multicolored butterfly and a ballet dancer clip inspired by couture. These creations emphasize the importance of dance and nature in the Maison’s imagination. Since Louis Arpels’ fascination with ballet led to the creation of the first ballerinas in the 1940s, the art of movement has been a vivid passion for the Maison.
Ballet Dancer Clip
The High Jewelry clip depicts a ballerina named Léonore, with a voluminous openwork skirt paved with diamonds of various sizes, resembling gossamer lace. Fashioned entirely in white gold, the ballerina’s face, crowned with a tiara, is symbolized by a rose-cut diamond topped with baguette-cut diamonds. The clip features a bustier and ballet slippers edged in yellow gold and set with round vibrant blue sapphires, with a fine gold bead belt highlighting the dancer’s waist.
White gold, yellow gold, sapphires, diamonds
High Jewelry collection
Butterfly Ring
The Between the Finger ring features a butterfly inspired by the Battus philenor from America, recreated with onyx, turquoise, and white mother-of-pearl marquetry. Pink sapphires and diamonds, including a 2.5-carat diamond, enhance the bold interplay of materials and volumes. The butterfly, perched delicately on the hand, can rotate thanks to an ingenious mechanism, reflecting Van Cleef & Arpels’ spirit of innovation and expertise in transformable jewelry. Using a specialized polishing technique to achieve a matte finish, the rose gold and white gold elements match perfectly, creating a piece that is cheerful and sophisticated, showcasing Van Cleef & Arpels’ expertise and taste for transformable jewelry.
White gold, rose gold, 2.5 carat EVVS2 diamond, rubies, pink, sapphires, onyx, turquoise, white mother-of-pearl, diamonds
High Jewelry collection
Event Details
Van Cleef & Arpels presents seven creations at the Fine Art and Antique Fair, TEFAF Maastricht 2024.
Dates: March 9th to 14th, 2024
Opening hours: 11:00am to 7:00pm
MECC Maastricht, Forum 100, 6229GV Maastricht, The Netherlands
YOU ASKED…
What is TEFAF Maastricht?
TEFAF Maastricht is a prestigious Fine Art and Antique Fair that brings together masterpieces from various disciplines, including antique artwork, grand master paintings, and High Jewelry pieces.
How long has Van Cleef & Arpels been participating in TEFAF Maastricht?
Van Cleef & Arpels has been participating in TEFAF Maastricht for the past 11 years.
What pieces is Van Cleef & Arpels showcasing at TEFAF Maastricht 2024?
Van Cleef & Arpels is showcasing seven pieces at TEFAF Maastricht 2024: five from its Heritage collection and two contemporary creations.
What is special about the 1961 Minaudière?
The 1961 Minaudière, inspired by an American client’s metal box, is equipped with a mirror and ingenious compartments, reflecting the Maison’s connection to couture. It allowed women to carry essentials like lipstick, calling cards, and a cigarette case during evenings.
ABOUT VAN CLEEF & ARPELS
Founded at Paris’ 22 Place Vendôme in 1906, Van Cleef & Arpels came into being, following Estelle Arpels’ marriage to Alfred Van Cleef in 1895. Over the decades, the excellence and creativity of the High Jewelry Maison established its reputation across the world.
With a blend of inventiveness and poetry, Van Cleef & Arpels perpetuates a highly distinctive style that has produced numerous signatures: the Mystery Set technique, the transformable Zip necklace and the Alhambra motif. The selection of gemstones according to the most stringent criteria and the savoir-faire of its craftsmen have given birth to enchanting jewelry and watchmaking collections.
Created at Place Vendôme in 2012 with the support of Van Cleef & Arpels, L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts introduces the general public to the world of jewelry. It offers a rich program of classes, lectures, exhibitions and creative workshops to a large and varied audience, from Paris to Tokyo, New York, Dubai or Hong Kong SAR – China where a permanent campus is also settled.
A devotee of dance ever since its origins, the Maison has strengthened its commitment to the arts with Dance Reflections by Van Cleef & Arpels. Launched in 2020, this initiative – guided by the values of creation, transmission and education – aims to uphold the artists and institutions that showcase the choreographic repertoire, while encouraging new productions.
Whether inspired by nature, couture, dance or imaginary worlds, the Maison opens the gate to a timeless universe of beauty and harmony. …more
Editor’s Note: All listed prices were correct at the time of publication. This article contains editorial selections and paid partnerships. Please note that this article may contain some affiliate links to products and we may receive a commission for selected purchases.
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