IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon

Details of the Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night

The Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night (Ref. IW545901) features a polished and brushed 18-carat Armor Gold® case, along with gold-plated hands and gold appliques. Armor Gold® is significantly harder and more resistant to wear compared to conventional 5N gold, thanks to its enhanced microstructure. The Obsidian black dial, which is highly polished, creates a striking contrast and depth. This watch is paired with a finely crafted curved black alligator leather strap from Santoni, a famous Italian maker of luxury shoes and leather goods.

The Sophistication of the Flying Minute Tourbillon

The flying minute tourbillon at 6 o’clock is one of the most advanced complications in watchmaking. Assembling and fine-tuning this delicate mechanism is a task for the most skilled master watchmakers at IWC Schaffhausen. The tourbillon places the balance wheel and pallet lever inside a small cage that rotates around its axis once per minute, reducing the impact of gravity on the watch’s oscillating system and enhancing its accuracy. Since the tourbillon cage stops and accelerates multiple times per second, its overall weight needs to be minimal. Despite comprising 56 individual parts, the entire mechanism weighs only 0.675 grams. The pallet lever and escape wheel are crafted from silicon and coated with a special diamond layer. The Diamond Shell® technology minimizes friction and enhances the energy flow in the movement, contributing to an 84-hour power reserve. The integrated tourbillon stop allows the mechanism to halt completely, enabling precise down-to-the-second time setting.

Innovative Day and Night Indication

One of the standout features is the 24-hour indication at 9 o’clock, designed as a small planet with a dark and bright side that rotates once every 24 hours. This visual representation of day and night was inspired by former trainee Loris Spitzer, highlighting the success of IWC’s trainee program and the company’s culture of innovation and curiosity. The day and night display is built into the newly developed IWC-manufactured 81925 calibre. Being a hand-wound movement without an oscillating mass, the small globe can be seen from both the front and back. The gold-plated base plate is partially skeletonized, allowing an unobstructed view of the barrel and other components. The movement features intricate circular Geneva stripes and can be seen through the sapphire glass case back.

The Armor Gold® Advantage

The use of Armor Gold® in the case of the Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night adds significant value. This material’s enhanced hardness and wear resistance set it apart from conventional 5N gold, ensuring long-lasting durability and maintaining the watch’s pristine appearance over time. The combination of polished and brushed finishes on the Armor Gold® case enhances the watch’s aesthetic appeal, making it a true masterpiece in fine watchmaking.

Craftsmanship of the Santoni Leather Strap

The black alligator leather strap from Santoni is meticulously crafted to complement the elegance of the Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night. Known for their luxury leather accessories, Santoni ensures that each strap is of the highest quality, offering both comfort and style. The curved design of the strap enhances the watch’s fit on the wrist, providing a seamless blend of luxury and functionality.

Conclusion: A Masterpiece of Fine Watchmaking

The IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night is a remarkable example of the brand’s dedication to fine watchmaking. Its innovative day and night indication, sophisticated tourbillon mechanism, and use of advanced materials like Armor Gold® make it a standout piece in the Portugieser collection. This timepiece not only reflects IWC’s rich heritage but also showcases their continuous pursuit of excellence and innovation in horology.

YOU ASKED…

What is unique about the IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon?

The watch features a unique day and night indicator and an advanced flying minute tourbillon, making it a standout piece in the Portugieser collection.

What materials are used in the Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon?

The watch is crafted with an 18-carat Armor Gold® case, gold-plated hands, and an Obsidian lacquered dial. It also features a black alligator leather strap from Santoni.

How does the day and night indication work?

The day and night indicator is represented by a small globe that rotates once every 24 hours, showing the eternal cycle of day and night from both the dial and movement side.

What is the power reserve of the Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon?

The watch has an impressive power reserve of 84 hours, thanks to the efficient energy flow in the movement, enhanced by Diamond Shell® technology.