Introduction of the Re-engineered Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44
IWC Schaffhausen has launched the newly redesigned Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44 at Watches and Wonders in Geneva. The collection includes four distinct versions. Two models come in 18-carat white gold with Horizon Blue and Dune dials, while the other two feature 18-carat Armor Gold® cases with either an Obsidian or Silver Moon dial. The dials, meticulously finished with 15 layers of transparent lacquer and polished to a high gloss, exhibit remarkable visual depth. The case construction has been entirely redesigned and refined to feature a slimmer case ring, along with double box-glass sapphire crystals. Each new model is driven by the IWC-manufactured 52616 calibre, featuring a Pellaton winding system and a 7-day power reserve.
History and Evolution of the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar
Over the past twenty years, the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar has become a cornerstone of IWC’s collection. Originally developed by Kurt Klaus, IWC’s former Head Watchmaker, in the 1980s, the perpetual calendar complication has seen continuous improvements. The inaugural Portugieser model featuring a perpetual calendar was introduced in 2003, featuring an enhanced moon phase display with increased accuracy from 122 to 577.5 years. An additional innovation is the patented Double Moon™ display, which illustrates the moon phase as viewed from both the Northern and Southern hemispheres. IWC Schaffhausen has fully reworked and refined this model, now presenting four new versions.
Detailed Features of Each New Model
Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44 (Ref. IW503703)
This model features an 18-carat white gold case, a Horizon Blue dial, and rhodium-plated hands and appliques. It comes with a gradient light-blue calfskin strap from Santoni.
Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44 (Ref. IW503704)
This version has an 18-carat white gold case, a Dune colored dial, and gold-plated hands and appliques. It is paired with a black alligator leather strap from Santoni.
Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44 (Ref. IW503702)
This model boasts an 18-carat Armor Gold® case, an Obsidian black dial, and gold-plated hands and appliques. Armor Gold® is significantly harder and more wear-resistant than traditional 5N gold. It is fitted with a black alligator leather strap from Santoni.
Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44 (Ref. IW503701)
This fourth model features an 18-carat Armor Gold® case, a Silver Moon dial, and gold-plated hands and appliques. It comes with a brown alligator leather strap from Santoni.
Innovative Case Construction and Dial Design
The most significant design change is the completely redesigned and refined case construction, featuring a slimmer case ring. The use of box-glass sapphire crystals on both the front and back enhances the watches’ lightness and elegance. The slimmer case ring offers a more delicate side profile. The dial graphics have been meticulously reworked and refined. The secret to their extraordinary visual depth lies in the application of 15 layers of transparent lacquer, which is finely ground and polished to a high gloss. The subdials that display the calendar information are milled into both the brass base and the lacquer layer. Lastly, the appliques are individually hand-mounted on the dials. This complex production process involves up to 60 individual steps.
Signature Double Moon™ Display
All four watches feature IWC’s signature Double Moon™ display, inspired by nautical instruments. This display shows the moon phase as seen from both the Northern and Southern hemispheres. Owing to a precisely calculated reduction gear, the indication will deviate from the moon’s actual orbit by just one day after 577.5 years.
Advanced Movement Technology
The watches are powered by the IWC-manufactured 52616 calibre movement, comprising 385 individual parts. The escapement has been enhanced to provide better protection against magnetic fields. The automatic Pellaton winding system uses zirconium oxide ceramic components and a solid gold oscillating mass, converting the wearer’s arm movements into energy for the mainspring, ensuring a reliable 7-day power reserve in two barrels.
The Perpetual Calendar: A Milestone for IWC Schaffhausen
The introduction of the perpetual calendar in 1985 marked a significant milestone for IWC Schaffhausen, showcasing their expertise in mechanical calendar complications. Kurt Klaus developed a complication with perfectly synchronized displays that can be easily advanced via the crown. Its ingeniously simple design perfectly reflects IWC Schaffhausen’s engineering philosophy in fine watchmaking, marked by functionality, efficiency, and ease of use. The calendar is mechanically set to operate on a four-year cycle. Besides acknowledging the varying lengths of months, it automatically adds a leap day every four years at the end of February. The mechanical program needs a slight adjustment in centuries divisible by 100 when the leap year is skipped, such as in 2100 or 2200.
YOU ASKED…
What are the dial options for the new Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44 models?
The new Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44 models offer Horizon Blue, Dune, Obsidian black, and Silver Moon dial options.
What materials are used for the cases of the new models?
The cases of the new models are available in 18-carat white gold and 18-carat Armor Gold®.
What is the power reserve of the IWC-manufactured 52616 calibre movement?
The IWC-manufactured 52616 calibre movement offers a power reserve of 7 days.
What makes the Armor Gold® used in some models unique?
Armor Gold® is unique due to its improved microstructure, making it harder and more wear-resistant than conventional 5N gold.
Editor’s Note: All listed prices were correct at the time of publication. This article contains editorial selections and paid partnerships. Please note that this article may contain some affiliate links to products and we may receive a commission for selected purchases.
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