IWC Schaffhausen’s Latest Unveilings at Watches and Wonders Geneva
At Watches and Wonders Geneva, IWC Schaffhausen introduced new models in the Portugieser Automatic 42 and Portugieser Automatic 40 lines. These watches feature re-engineered cases with a slim profile, enhancing their elegance and refinement.
New Case Design and Sapphire Crystal Enhancements
The watches boast a completely re-engineered case design with a slender side profile, making them particularly elegant and refined. Box-glass sapphire crystals offer an excellent view of the dials, which are elaborately finished with 15 layers of transparent lacquer. Larger aperture sapphire crystals on the back showcase the IWC-manufactured movements from the 52000 and 82000 calibre families, both featuring Pellaton winding systems with ceramic components.
Dial Colors Reflecting the Cycle of Day and Night
Selected models come in new design codes with dial colors such as Horizon Blue, Obsidian, Dune, and Silver Moon. These colors reflect the never-ending cycle of day and night, underscoring the timeless appeal of the Portugieser’s design.
Historical Roots of the Portugieser
The Portugieser’s history dates back to the late 1930s, when IWC Schaffhausen utilized a high-precision pocket watch movement to craft a notably large wristwatch with chronometer precision. Despite being designed over 80 years ago with a simple case shape and a purist, easy-to-read dial, it is difficult to associate the Portugieser with any specific period. Clean and open dials with applied Arabic numerals, Feuille-type hands, and a minutes scale reminiscent of railway tracks ensure perfect legibility.
Refinement and Elegance in the New Collection
IWC Schaffhausen has enhanced its timelessly elegant Portugieser watches in every aspect, introducing a new collection of the Portugieser Automatic 42 and Portugieser Automatic 40 models. All watches feature a carefully reworked case construction with a slender side profile, making them visually light and more elegant. The double box-glass sapphire crystals offer an even better view of the new dials and the IWC-manufactured movements inside.
Intricate Dial Craftsmanship
The dials result from an elaborate and complex process. The brass bases are either treated with a sunburst finish or given a finely blasted surface before the color application. The pronounced optical depth is achieved by applying 15 layers of lacquer, which is fine-ground and polished to a high gloss finish. The subdials are milled into both the brass base and the lacquer layer. The three-dimensional effect is further highlighted by a special printing process, enhancing the sense of depth. Finally, the appliques are individually hand-mounted, and the dial graphics have been carefully reworked for perfect balance of lightness, elegance, and legibility.
Distinctive Features of the Portugieser Automatic
The Portugieser Automatic stands out with its balanced dial design, featuring a power reserve indicator at 3 o’clock and a small seconds display at 9 o’clock. The new Portugieser Automatic 42 (Ref. IW5017) is a timeless and modern dress watch that retains the DNA of the original Portugieser Automatic (Ref. IW50001) from the year 2000.
Technical Specifications and Innovations
The new models are powered by the IWC-manufactured 52011 calibre. The escapement has been improved to offer better protection against magnetic fields. The Pellaton winding system is strengthened with nearly wear-free zirconium oxide ceramic components, building up a power reserve of seven days (168 hours) in two barrels.
Introduction of the Portugieser Automatic 40
First introduced to the collection in 2020, the Portugieser Automatic 40 (Ref. IW3584) captures the essence of the Portugieser design with a more compact 40-millimeter case size. Directly descended from the first Portugieser, Reference 325 from 1939, it showcases a clean and open dial with a small seconds display at 6 o’clock and no date window.
Details of the Portugieser Automatic 40 Models
The new Portugieser Automatic 40 models include:
- 18-carat white gold case, Horizon Blue dial, rhodium-plated hands and appliques, gradient light-blue calfskin strap from Santoni with 18-carat white gold pin buckle (Ref. IW358402)
- 18-carat 5N gold case, Obsidian black dial, gold-plated hands and gold appliques, black alligator leather strap from Santoni with 18-carat 5N gold pin buckle (Ref. IW358401)
Technical Details of the Portugieser Automatic 40
Both models are powered by the IWC-manufactured 82200 calibre. Featuring parts made of zirconium oxide ceramic, the automatic Pellaton winding system builds up a power reserve of 60 hours in the mainspring.
YOU ASKED…
What are the main features of the new Portugieser Automatic models?
The new Portugieser Automatic models feature re-engineered cases with a slim profile, double box-glass sapphire crystals, and elaborately finished dials with 15 layers of lacquer. They also showcase IWC-manufactured movements with Pellaton winding systems.
What dial colors are available for the new Portugieser models?
The new models come in dial colors such as Horizon Blue, Obsidian, Dune, and Silver Moon, reflecting the cycle of day and night and the timeless appeal of the Portugieser design.
What improvements have been made to the escapement in the new models?
The escapement in the new models has been improved to offer better protection against magnetic fields, enhancing the overall durability and reliability of the watches.
What is the power reserve of the new Portugieser Automatic 42 models?
The new Portugieser Automatic 42 models are powered by the IWC-manufactured 52011 calibre, which builds up a power reserve of seven days (168 hours) in two barrels.
Editor’s Note: All listed prices were correct at the time of publication. This article contains editorial selections and paid partnerships. Please note that this article may contain some affiliate links to products and we may receive a commission for selected purchases.
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